Golf Tip – Two great putting drills to lower your scores. Alistair Davies golf shares with you two drills to improve your stability and trust in putting. These drills can …

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Even Tiger Woods has shanked the ball when he least expected it. A shank can send panic into your game because the club head swing path that creates a shank is so close to that of a perfect shot…

Experiencing a shank during a round can be so unnerving that some golfers fall into pure despair when it creeps into their game because the results of a shank are never good.

Recently I conducted an online lesson with a very enthusiastic student from England who suddenly started experiencing the shanks with his short game. Fortunately, we fixed the problem right away.

I thought it would be useful to share some of the points we covered because at one time during your golf career a shank will pop up when you are least expecting it and if you follow these corrections, you can nip it in the bud before it takes over your total golf psyche!

Where shanks occur

As was the case with my student, a shank occurs mostly on short “feely” chip shots where there is not much hand action at impact.

A shank can also occur in the games of golfers who have a severe hook who open their club face at address or try to slow down their hand action on the downswing to counter the hook effect.

Where shanks seldom occur

Although a shank can occur with most swing paths, golfers who experience a fade or slice in their games are very unlikely to experience a shank…so you guys can relax a little.

Swing mechanics of a shank

At impact with the ball the following conditions occur to generate the shank:

– The ball comes in contact with the heel of the club, not the club face

– The club face is wide open at contact

– In most cases, the club head swing path is coming from “inside to out” as it comes in contact with the ball

The last point may seem a little strange because many golfers strive for an “inside to out” swing path to create a draw flight path which is why a shank occurs on a swing path that many would say is close to a perfect shot…

How to correct a shank and kill it for good

Here are a few corrections you can make to eliminate a shank immediately:

– Rotate your hands more into the ball so that you lead into the shot with the back of the left hand facing towards the target at impact and not pointing skywards.

Try this little exercise to give you a better understanding of the hand position that generates a shank at impact:

If you have a correct grip that is not overly “strong”, stand in the address position with a club in your left hand. Now rotate your hand to the right until the back of your hand is aiming skywards.

You will observe that the club face is wide open with the heel leading into the ball.

This is the most likely hand position that will generate a shank at impact and explains why a shank occurs more on “feely” short shots where there is less hand action.

– It is always better to shorten your backswing on short chip shots to accelerate your hands through the ball at impact rather than try to slow the hands down on the downswing for fear of over shooting the shot.

– Also on short chips shots, aim the club face at the target and open your stance to create an “outside in” club head swing path. You will seldom hit a shank if the club head swing path is coming into the ball from “outside in”, even if the club face is wide open.

– On other shots, close the club face a little at address which will take the heel more out of play at impact.

– Make sure you are not standing too upright or too close to the ball at setup. Standing too close to the ball will naturally encourage you to hit the ball more on the shaft end of the club face.

– Check that you are not using a “closed stance” at address that would exaggerate the “inside out” swing path on the downswing.

– Do not rotate your hands to the right immediately on the take away. This flattens the swing and exaggerates the” inside out” club head motion of the swing on the downswing.

Any one or combination of these corrections will eliminate a shank for good.

Good luck and swing sweetly!

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Source by Les Ross

the BEST way to improve strength, flexibility, core stability, balance – and PREVENT INJURY! www.skylimitfitness.com.

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For gas powered carts, the cables need only be of sufficient size to operate the starter motor, which is only for a few seconds at a time. So that answer is no, the originally installed cables are plenty sufficient in size. For those of us who have the more plentiful, battery powered carts, the answer is somewhat more complicated. The short answer for us is, yes and no, depending upon what we expect from the cart or if modifications to the motor or controller have been made.

If the cart is absolutely bone stock (all original with no upgrades) and is used primarily as originally intended around the local course, the standard 6 AWG (aka 6 gauge or #6) cables are perfectly fine. Wire (cable) size is measured by a standard called American Wire Gauge or AWG and relates to the diameter or cross sectional area of the copper conductor itself. The smaller the AWG number, the larger the diameter, and hence, larger current carrying capacity. For example, a 2 AWG cable is larger than a 4 AWG which is larger than a 6 AWG. Most cart manufacturers use 6 AWG cables. The finest cables we have found so far are made by MaxiLink.com, which are super flexible and made for extreme duty electric vehicle use.

Ok, now for you guys that want better performance, we’ll get a little more technical. The maximum current that will ever go through your cables is when the cart is at rest and you mash the gas pedal to the floor. At that point in time, the controller puts out the max power it is capable of, and the motor experiences what is called “locked rotor” current draw, which can be hundreds of amperes. When the motor is in a stalled state, it requires tremendous energy to get it spinning to the rated RPM. If the motor were to stay in the stalled state (if there was some mechanical restraint that would not allow it to turn) the high current would continue to be absorbed by the motor until it actually burned up the windings. Typically though, the motor begins to spin immediately, and the current drops down to 20 or so amperes within a few milliseconds (on a stock cart). There are four things that limit that maximum current; the resistance of the internal windings of the motor, the current capacity of the battery pack, the controller capacity and the resistance of the battery cables. The Battery Pack and Motor windings are pretty much fixed values. Keep these in mind because we will come back to them.

Aftermarket “high torque” or “high speed” motors installed to increase the carts performance are commonplace these days. Unfortunately, that additional performance requires additional power. The motor is only there to convert electrical energy into kinetic energy (not very efficiently either). High power motors have a lower internal resistance than stock, which in turn draws more current. If you remember from science class, power (in watts) is voltage (E) multiplied by the current (I). Since the voltage cannot go any higher than the battery’s 48volts (or 36volts), the current increases in order to satisfy the power demand of the motor. Unfortunately, this is where the resistance of the battery cables come into play. As the current increases in a conductor, power is lost in the form of heat at a rate of I2R, where R is the cable resistance. In an ideal cable and to transfer max power, the cable resistance (R) should be zero ohms. Unfortunately all cables have some resistance. The cable resistance causes the voltage to drop (E=IR) and results in lost power to the motor. The solution; increase the size of the battery cables (the larger the cable the less the resistance). Of course, the cable diameter can only be increased within reasonable mechanical size limitations, but that is what is required to reap the full benefits of a high power aftermarket motor. Our example used the locked rotor current to explain the worst case effects. They are less drastic at partial throttle, where the current draw is significantly less. If you want to do the drag racing, burnouts, wheelies and such with your cart though, you will need the bigger cables to supply the required massive inrush of current to the motor. Although the resistance of the cables seems tiny (#6 = 0.00047ohms/ft vs. #2 = 0.00015 ohms/ft), the voltage drop is significant when large currents are present, which will reduce performance. So for the high power motor users out there, use large diameter cables and keep them as short as possible. Size will matter to you. Look for other articles by Randy Wade and check out www.digitaloverdrivesystems.com regularly for news, tips and performance products including the new Maxilink Extreme Duty EV cables.

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Source by Randy Wade

Download Matthew’s App https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/ultimate-golf-coach/id466706894?mt=8 Weekly Golf Drill from Award winning PGA Professional …

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